Delicate Like Iron
In the period from the late 18th to the mid-19th century, what was known as iron jewelry was quite popular. It ranged from elaborate necklaces and bracelets to pendant earrings, brooches and even rings, filigreed like lace yet cast from iron.
The pieces’ unobtrusive material, clear-cut formal idiom and somewhat inaccessible character reflect the values embraced by societies of the time: constancy, modesty and reticence. In line with the taste of this era, they feature elements from Gothic architecture or floral ornamental motifs from classical antiquity, such as palmettes, acanthus and wine leaves.
Delicate Like Iron, Jewelry from a Private Collection
16.07.2021 to 06.02.2022
Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim
During World War I, iron jewelry became fashionable again in the shape of rings, brooches or medallions with the inscription “Gold gab ich für Eisen” (I gave gold for iron).
In addition to Berlin – from which the French term “fer de Berlin” derives, the city of Gleiwitz (now Gliwice in Poland) was also home to an important foundry. At first, iron jewelry was mainly used as mourning jewelry, and many women were wearing what are called “Louise pendants” or “Louise brooches” after the early death of the well-liked Prussian Queen Louise in 1810.
During the time of the Napoleonic Wars of Liberation, iron jewelry was being worn increasingly as a political statement or symbol of patriotism, and was donned “to save the fatherland” following an appeal by Princess Marianne of Prussia in 1813 to donate gold jewelry in exchange for pieces made of iron. What enabled the production of delicate iron jewelry in the first place was the state of technological development back then as a necessary prerequisite for transforming the technically demanding designs into tangible pieces.

Belt buckle
Berlin or Gleiwitz, about 1820 Klaus-Peter und Judith Thomé Collection
Photography by Winfried Reinhardt
What enabled the production of delicate iron jewelry in the first place was the state of technological development back then as a necessary prerequisite for transforming the technically demanding designs into tangible pieces.
Some of the designs were created by the state architect of Prussia, Karl Friedrich Schinkel. During World War I, iron jewelry became fashionable again in the shape of rings, brooches or medallions with the inscription “Gold gab ich für Eisen” (I gave gold for iron), for example.
The exhibits are from the Klaus-Peter and Judith Thomé Collection, which was assembled over the course of the past 25 years and is now incorporated into the Jewelry Museum’s collection as a donation. American-born Judith Thomé steadily purchased historical jewelry since the late 1970s and her first piece of iron jewelry, a Berlin iron necklace enhanced with medallions, was purchased at an auction in 1995. She was so fascinated by it, that she started to collect iron jewelry and has amassed about 160 pieces to date. Her penchant for jewelry was sparked by a geologist friend of the family when she was still a child back in America.

Belt buckle
Berlin or Gleiwitz, about 1820 Klaus-Peter und Judith Thomé Collection
Photography by Winfried Reinhardt