Angels’ Tears or Gems of the Ocean
Retrospective

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Published on

06.02.2022


Angels’ Tears or Gems of the Ocean

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Alexander the Great

Albion Art Museum

Gulbenkian Museum

Mellerio dits Meller

Qatar Museums Authority

Princess of Württemberg

Princess Marie of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis

William Ruser

Sam Tho Duong

EXHIBITION CATALOGUE

Cornelie Holzach, Isabel Schmidt-Mappes
Angels’ Tears or Gems of the Ocean: Pearls in the History of Jewelry
Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim, 2013
Text in German and English, 96 pages, colour images
ISBN 978-3-933924-15-5
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Of delicate beauty, extreme rarity and immense value, pearls have always been objects of desire. Back in antiquity, people went pearl hunting in the Persian Gulf in search of pearls of superlative quality. After Alexander the Great conquered Persia, they also made their way to Europe. In the course of time, pearls have become shrouded in countless legends, myths and stories. After all, besides representing uninhibited indulgence in luxury, pearls have also been regarded as symbols of The Virgin Mary’s purity. In Ancient Greece and Rome, pearls were believed to have been born of the sea and endowed with magical and healing properties.

 

From classical antiquity until the present day, pearls have played a central role in jewelry. “Angels’ Tears or Gems of the Ocean: Pearls in the History of Jewelry” exhibition by  Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim illustrated the multifaceted ways of using pearls to create jewelry and the skilled craftsmanship involved. This was achieved by means of historical as well as contemporary examples, including exhibits from the Albion Art Jewelry Museum in Tokyo, the Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon, Chaumet and Mellerio dits Meller in Paris, the Qatar Museums Authority in Doha and Tiffany & Co. in New York.

What are known as baroque pearls – a term derived from the Portuguese word “barocco” referring to an irregularly shaped, imperfect pearl – were highly coveted during the Renaissance and Baroque periods in particular.

De Keroüartz’s Tiara by Chaumet
Gold, silver, diamonds, natural pearls
Chaumet
Paris, 1897
Qatar Museums Authority

To name just a few outstanding highlights, visitors were able to admire tiaras from the state collections in Qatar, which date back to the 19th and 20th centuries and were once adorned by the royal heads of the Princesses of Württemberg and Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen respectively, or that of Empress Elizabeth of Austria’s daughter.

 

A pendant from Albion Art, which once belonged to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, was also on view, as was a pair of earrings and a ring once worn by Liz Taylor on loan from a private collection. Two pieces by Tiffany & Co., presented at world exhibitions in Paris (1889) and Chicago (1893), were revealed to the public for the first time since then.

Pearls were particularly sought after for creations depicting women or femininity in a time that produced countless variations of the association between woman and water, the sea, fish and seashells. 

FIGURES MADE OF BAROQUE PEARLS

Renaissance and Baroque, Historicism and Art Nouveau are epochs that brought forth an abundance of pearl jewelry. What are known as baroque pearls – a term derived from the Portuguese word “barocco” referring to an irregularly shaped, imperfect pearl – were highly coveted during the Renaissance and Baroque periods in particular. Quite often, they were used to form the main element of a piece of jewelry in the shape of a figurine’s body or part of it.

 

Combining pearls and enamel was also very popular, as were necklaces composed of large round pearls, which were considered some of the greatest treasures due to the rareness of the pearls’ perfect shapes. Wed with gemstones, pearls were also used as embellishing elements for lockets, brooches or pendants. Some magnificent examples of this type of jewelry were crafted by Chaumet and Tiffany & Co.

The notion prevalent since the days of Ancient Rome was that pearls, like Aphrodite or Venus, are born from the sea.

ART NOUVEAU CREATIONS
As a result of the trend towards natural forms and shapes in the Art Nouveau period, pearls were an important jewelry element in this epoch as well. They were particularly sought after for creations depicting women or femininity in a time that produced countless variations of the association between woman and water, the sea, fish and seashells.

 

This was quite in line with the notion prevalent since the days of Ancient Rome that pearls, like Aphrodite or Venus, are born from the sea. The Art Nouveau period also saw a revival of the irregular shapes of baroque pearls, exemplified by the exceptional Octopus and Butterfly brooch designed by Wilhelm Lukas von Cranach and part of Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim’s collection.

FROM ART DECO TO THE PRESENT
In the Art Deco period, it was rather uncommon to see pearls used in jewelry because they were in stark contrast to the clear-cut formal idiom of this era. Nevertheless, there are a few examples featuring an eminently harmonious incorporation of smooth and lustrous pearls in geometrical compositions.

 

The popularity of freshwater pearls since the 1940s is embodied by a ring that once belonged to Liz Taylor and sports a large cultured pearl surrounded by diamonds. It was designed by William Ruser, a very coveted designer in Hollywood, whose creations were worn by many stars beyond the silver screen.

 

Whether naturally grown or cultured, pearls also play an important role in contemporary art jewelry, as is exemplified by the sumptuous necklaces reminiscent of natural phenomena such as ice crystals on frozen twigs or fruit crafted from tiny rice-shaped freshwater pearls by jewelry artist Sam Tho Duong, who was born in Vietnam and now lives in Pforzheim.

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